It was the week before Christmas and I was on a mission to tick off a couple more restaurants from my 2017 wish list. I may have taken a break from blogging over the past few months but my foodie obsession is still going strong over on Instagram.
I’ve always been a fan of tasting menus and their ability to help you uncover new tastes and flavours you might otherwise overlook. Anglo restaurant, hidden off Hatton Garden in Farringdon, has been on my watch list since Grace Dent compared it to Noma, if it was born and raised in Norwich – ha.
Our booking was on a Tuesday evening which meant a 7 course tasting menu for £48 per person was on offer. On Friday and Saturday evenings a similar menu consisting of 8 rather than 7 dishes is available for £60. Not sure what the difference is but the restaurant was full, bar one table of two, for the duration of the evening so the atmosphere was enjoyable despite it being early in the week.
We opted for the drinks pairing consisting of wines, beers and ciders to match each dish for £35 per person.
A selection of intros were first brought to the table one dish at a time. To begin, a mushroom broth. I’m not a fan of mushrooms but have been trying them more and more of late. Whilst I’d still switch them for extra beans with my fry-up I’m starting to enjoy them in small doses. Thinly sliced raw mushrooms sat in layers to one side of the dish on top of a rich truffle purée, both soaked in a light flavoursome broth.
Next on the menu was Ika and dashi, this was going to be a surprise since I hadn’t a clue what either ingredient was. It turns out Ika is in fact squid which was served raw, chopped up like a tartare. It was wrapped in dashi which is a type of stock that forms the base of miso soup or noodle broth, in this dish it was presented as a jelly. The plate was delicate and textural.
The final snack was most definitely my favourite. A crab tartlet, one mouthful but what a wonderful mouthful. Crab ‘snow’ topped the creamy tartlet, quite the creation.
I was delighted to see cauliflower feature on the menu as I’ve seen it take on so many delicious forms this year that I was interested to see Anglo’s take. Here it was hidden under a foam of smoked herring roe. A beautifully saline dish, balanced by the deep, earthy notes of the cauliflower.
Lightly cooked cod served with sea vegetables and salsify tasted fresh and was perfectly timed before we moved onto the main meat dish.
The tasting menu offers two options for the main meal, I went for the Hay smoked turkey with carrot and cranberry, after all tis’ the season. My dining partner chose the duck which came with a £12 supplement. The turkey dish was probably the best turkey I’ve ever eaten (sorry Dad!). It had retained moisture and was delicious paired with turkey heart, bacon and greens.
The Wild duck was served with pumpkin and sliced pears, a larger portion which might justify the supplement but overall I didn’t feel it was worth that much extra. The meat was a little to firm in my opinion.
The cheese course, included in the menu, was excellent. Underneath a mound of gratings was a warm cheese on toast, gooey and oniony on a sticky malt loaf. Although it was rich for something served so late on in the menu it was a cheese lovers dream.
A Pine parfait was served as the palate cleaner. Don’t be fooled by its appearance, you’re looking at glorified choc ice below that unfortunately tasted no better than a car air freshener to me.
To complete the dinner we enjoyed a slice of Matcha cake with clementine and miso ice cream. Followed by a taster of lemon thyme granita, crème pât and apple (which I forgot to take a photo of).
Our evening was topped off with petits fours (mince pies and chocolate truffles which were more of a light moose than a rich chocolate truffle). We had a terrific evening and enjoyed the creativity behind every dish. Coupled with great service and a warm atmosphere we’re keen to book a return trip in soon.
ADDRESS: 30 St Cross St, London EC1N 8UH
OPENING HOURS: Tue – Saturday 12:30–2:30pm, 6:30–9:30pm, 6:30–9:30pm on Mondays and closed on Sundays
CONTACT: 020 7430 1503